Nature Printing with Tempra Paint

Nature printing of plants onto paper is usually done using oil (linseed oil) based block printing, relief or etching inks. Soft rubber rollers called brayers are usually used to put ink onto the plants, then the plant is pressed onto imported "rice papers" to make the print.

This note gives instructions on the use of tempra paint, foam rubber dabbers, and typing paper to produce paints easily, and inexpensively in school classrooms, camp settings, etc.

Supplies

Tempra paints are used because they are inexpensive, readily available, and are easily removed from hands and clothing. Tempra paints directly from the bottle do not work very well so they are mixed with glycerine and honey. The glycerine keeps them from drying too fast and the honey helps them wet the plants better, giving a more uniform coating.

I recommend the following general formula. It may need to be modified slightly depending on the tempra used.

Glycerine is not hazardous. It is used in cosmetics, and pan type water colors to keep them from drying out, but be sure to follow the safety precautions on the label.

Make a foam rubber covered dabber by cutting a circle of foam rubber about 3 times the diameter of the dowel or spool, etc. Drape the foam over the end of the dowel and put the rubber band around it to keep it in place.

Using masking tape on the corners, attach a piece of freezer wrap to an impervious surface.

Put a few drops of the mixed tempra on the freezer wrap and use the dabber to spread the tempra into a thin coat bigger than the plant you want to print.

Take a piece of typing paper and fold it in half, then open it and lay it next to the freezer wrap.

Now place the plant you want to print in the middle of the tempra and dab the tempra onto the plant by pressing down onto the plant then raising the dabber and pressing down in another spot next to the first. Repeat until the whole plant is inked evenly. Next, using the tweezers, pick up the plant and repeat on the other side.

Once the plant is coated evenly on both sides, carefully pick up the plant with tweezers and place it on one half of the typing paper. Fold the other half of the paper over so that the plant is between the two halves.

If you are right handed, use your left hand to hold the paper and plant firmly against the table and use your right hand to rub the paper on top of the plant. Rub with a firm pressure, but not enough pressure to crush the plant. Make sure to rub well next to the veins. As you rub, you will be able to see the plant print through the paper.

Carefully open the two halves of the paper and remove the plant without smudging the print. Lay the paper aside for a few minutes to dry.

When you are finished, clean up with soap and water. The dabber can be used again and again.

HELPFUL HINTS

  1. The biggest problem new plant printers have is using too much tempra. It only takes a few drops. It should take about 5 passes over the plant dabbing firmly to ink the plant. If it takes less,you have too much tempra on the dabber and freezer wrap.
  2. Construction paper will also make good prints, particularly if too much tempra is being used. The only drawback is that you cannot see through the paper and rubbing all of the plant is more difficult.
  3. Look for plants that are as flat as possible. Curled leaves look nice on the tree but will have wrinkles when printed.
  4. This activity can be done inside or outside, but not in the sun.
  5. Once the plant touches the paper, you cannot move it without getting a smudged print. Initial prints should be made with sturdy plants that are not too wilted and floppy.
  6. Some of the most interesting prints are made from the bottom side of leaves which show the most veins. This side should be inked last.
  7. Practice until you have mastered this yourself. It is not hard, but does take some practice to get the best results.

    John Doughty
    Nature Impressions
    1658 Lake Hills Court
    Parkersburg, WV 26101
    (304) 485Ð2291